The beauty of this DIY candle is truly mesmerizing!
This Candleidoscope candle recipe is so eye-catching. With its subtle gradient of shades and its spiral stairwell shape, we just can’t take our eyes off it. We’re so proud of this superb creation that we almost don’t want to light it so that we can keep enjoying its beauty. But once we’ve used it all up, we’ll have the perfect excuse to make another one!
To make this homemade candle, it’s best if you already have some candle-making experience. It takes a lot of care and attention, and it helps to be familiar and comfortable with the process. If you’re less experienced, why not check out our article on how to make a basic candle? You can return to this recipe after! If you’re already adept at making your own candles, then feel free to use this recipe as a guideline: you can try changing the hues or the arrangement and number of layers… And please remember to send us photos of your masterpieces!
We can’t wait to see what kind of Candleidoscope you’ll create!
How to make a spiral candle
Before you begin
- If you’d like your homemade candle to be scented, then you need to be careful when picking out your scents. It’s important to choose candle-safe essential oils or to use aromatic essences, as all of the aromatic essences we sell are candle-safe. For instructions on how to incorporate scents into your candle, see the “Good to know!” section below.
- 350 g KeraSoy pillar wax
- Candle colourant chips (in this recipe, we used pale pink, ivory, red, orange, and black).
- 3.2 g essential oils or aromatic essences (optional)
- Wax melting pitcher
- Components to make a double boiler
- Square candle mold
- Small silicone spatula
- Wick tab (15 mm x 6 mm 3 mm)
- Wick RRD #6 (12 cm)
- Pair of scissors
- Candle mold sealant
- Scale accurate to 0.1 g
- A ramekin and pipette to measure and add scents (if using)
- A thin metal rod of the same diameter as the wick
Good to know!
- Since this recipe is for a pillar candle (meaning you will need to remove the layers from the mold), the KeraSoy pillar candle wax cannot be replaced by another wax, or you would need to modify the whole recipe.
- The colourants in this candle recipe are important in achieving the gradient effect. However, it can be challenging to use colourants properly. Here are a few tips to help you out.
- 1 – ivory
- 2 – ivory – orange
- 3 – ivory – pale pink
- 4 – pale pink – cinnamon red
- 5 – pale pink – cinnamon red
- 6 – cinnamon red
- 7 – cinnamon red
- 8 – cinnamon red – black
Note that you just need a few specks of colourant for each layer. Be careful not to add too much, or the colourant will saturate your wax. When that happens, little coloured dots will be interspersed in your wax. These are tiny pieces of colourant that haven’t melted. You’ll still be able to use your candle; the problem is merely aesthetic.
- Have fun experimenting! This candle recipe is the perfect opportunity to play with your colourants. Don’t hesitate to do tests to find the hues you like best. Make sure to take notes for each combination you try so that you can make it again if you wish. It would be a shame to get the perfect shade but not know how to reproduce it!
- Know your colourants. Experiment a little, and you’ll learn a lot! For example, black, red, and orange will yield bright, pronounced colours, so you’ll only need a little. However, ivory and pale pink are much paler and will lighten the wax. It’s up to you to play with these factors to create your dream shades!
- Test the colour of your melted wax. It’s hard to tell what colour your hardened wax will be just by looking at it melted. Luckily, there’s an easy trick to solve this problem.
- Put several teaspoons in the freezer.
- Dip a cold spoon in the hot coloured wax. The temperature shock between the hot wax and the cold spoon will quickly solidify the wax, showing you its true final colour!
- Check the colour and adjust your colourants as needed.
- If you’d like to add scents to your homemade candle, you absolutely can! We recommend a maximum usage rate of 10%. As each layer contains 40 g of wax, that means you can add a maximum of 4 g of scent to each layer. Just add your scent to your coloured wax when it has cooled to 50°C, in step 7.
- To make it easier to unmold your wax layers, pop the mold in the freezer. Wait until your wax has cooled, then remove the sealant and put your mold in the freezer for five to 10 minutes. The wax will retract and unmold easily. It’s important to wait until your wax has sufficiently cooled first, otherwise, the big change in temperature may cause it to crack.
- Is there a bit of wax left stuck to the inner walls of your mold? Don’t worry, there’s a quick way to fix this. Just heat each side of the mold for a second or two. The wax will soften, and you’ll be able to easily remove it with a cloth. Now your mold is ready for your next layer!
Steps to follow
- Place several teaspoons in the freezer. Leave one at room temperature to use at the end of the recipe.
- Weigh 42 g of wax in your wax melting pitcher. Melt on the double boiler.
- When the wax has melted, remove it from the heat. Prepare and prime your wick.
- Return the pitcher containing the wax to the double boiler. Add a few specks of colourant and melt the mixture. Mix well with the small spatula to help the colourant melt. Continue to stir until the mixture is homogeneous.
- Test the colour of the wax using a spoon that you placed in the freezer. See “Good to know!” for instructions on how to test the colour of your wax. Adjust your colourants as needed.
- Place a piece of sealant to plug the wick hole in the mold. If your sealant doesn’t stick well after a few uses, grab a new piece.
- To scent the wax (optional): When the wax has cooled to about 50°C, add up to 4 g of your chosen scent. Mix well using the small spatula.
- Pour the wax into the square mold.
- When the wax has cooled and solidified, remove the sealant and unmold the square of wax.
- Weigh 40 g of wax in the wax melting pitcher and repeat step 4. You’re using 2 g less of wax this time because 2 g were necessary to prime the wick in step 2.
- Repeat 10 step as many times as necessary to produce the number of layers you want. In the recipe for our candle, we made eight squares, but you can make more or less.
- Once all the wax squares have been unmolded, choose what order you’d like to place them it to produce your desired gradient.
- Make a hole in the centre of each square with the metal rod. You can heat up the metal rod first, which will make it easier to pierce the wax. The centre of the square is easy to locate, thanks to the mark left by the sealant!
- Cut the top of the wick at an angle, which will make it easier to thread it through the squares.
- Thread the wick through the hole of the first (bottom) square.
- Melt the rest of the wax on the double boiler. There’s no need to add colour or scent this time.
- Pour 1–2 teaspoons of melted wax on the top of the first square, then quickly place the second square on top of it, proceeding in the same way as you did in step 15. The melted wax helps the layers of the candle stick together. Here, we chose to shift each square to give our candle the shape of a spiral staircase. You may choose to offset them further or to line them up perfectly, depending on the effect you’d like.
- Repeat step 17 until your candle is complete.
- Once you’ve finished setting each layer, trim the wick to 1 cm. Wait 48 hours before lighting your DIY candle for the first time.
Before each use, trim the wick to about 1 cm. This will help prevent a ball of soot from forming at the tip of the wick.