Your face will love this recipe!
We would all like to have a luminous, fresh complexion all the time. Alas, the weather, lack of sleep, and our superhuman schedules sometimes make it difficult… Fortunately, there’s a trick to give you an I-woke-up-like-this complexion: It’s a homemade BB cream!
This recipe took weeks of research to develop, and the result not only meets our expectations but also matches our efforts! Its smooth, fluid texture is very pleasant, and it makes your skin soft, nourished, and hydrated, without leaving a greasy film. What’s more, this homemade tinted face cream has a light coverage so it’s perfect for when you want a very natural look. As you’ve probably noticed by now, this BB cream recipe has won us all over!
Smile and say “I Woke Up Like This” with your new DIY BB cream!
How to make your own BB cream
Before you begin
- In these step-by-step instructions for making BB cream, we offer suggestions for different skin tones. For a cream that best matches your complexion, it will be necessary to experiment a bit by modifying the quantities of the pigments, such as titanium dioxide (a very white pigment) or brown oxide. However, we cannot say exactly which composition will be ideal for you to test out. This kind of recipe is designed through much trial and error!
- The pigment-blending step is very important! Oxides are highly concentrated pure pigments that tend to form clumps. Blending them facilitates their dispersal. Without this step, colour streaks will be apparent when you apply the product—which (usually!) isn’t the desired effect.
- *CAREFUL* We use mini measuring spoons in this recipe (quantities given in DASH, SMIDGEN, etc.). The measurements must be levelled to obtain the correct quantity. To do so, we recommend filling the measuring spoon with the product, then sliding the back of a knife along the spoon to remove excess.
- 10 drops lactic acid
- 0.2 g vitamin E
- 5–10 drops rosewood essential oil (optional)
- 2.5 g willow bark extract
- 13 g demineralized water, at a temperature of 50°C
- 1 g GeoGard Ultra
- 0.3 g potassium sorbate
- 3 small stainless steel bowls
- Components to make three double boilers
- 1 scale, accurate to 0.1 g
- 1 mini-mixer with frothing attachment (the small wheel)
- 1 mini measuring spoon set (TAD, DASH, etc.)
- 1 pigment blender
- A few ramekins and small spoons
- 1 mini silicone spatula
- 1 thermometer
- 1 small Ziploc-style bag
- 1 pair of scissors
- 2 “airless” pump bottles, 30 ml
- 1 dispensing tube, 10 ml
Good to know!
- Careful! For this natural BB cream recipe, you have to be very meticulous when measuring your ingredients. Because the quantities are very small, just one mistake can wreck the results.
- We advise against substituting any ingredients in this recipe, as this may alter the product’s effectiveness (except for adjusting the pigments as needed, of course).
- We provide instructions for filling three containers: two airless pump bottles (30 ml each) and one dispensing tube (10 ml). Note that the tube is optional. Indeed, you can fill the two airless bottles with the cream obtained from this recipe. However, we think it’s really handy to have a small tube of BB cream in your bag for quick touch-ups before a meeting, a happy hour event, or whatever else you have lined up!
Steps to follow
- Prepare and disinfect your equipment and workspace.
- Weigh the water for the aqueous phase in a bowl and heat on a double boiler until it reaches 70–80°C. Meanwhile, mix the glycerin and the gums in a small ramekin. Set aside.
- Weigh the demineralized water for the cooling phase in another bowl and heat on a double boiler. Keep a close eye on the temperature throughout this recipe; you want the water to remain at 50°C.
- Add all of the ingredients from the pigment phase to the container portion of the pigment blender.
- Screw the container firmly into the pigment blender. Turn the pigment blender upside down (i.e., container pointed upwards) and blend the powders, shaking the pigment blender throughout, for at least a minute. Turn the blender off and shake (with the container pointed downwards) so that the powders fall down into the container.
- With a mini spatula or a spoon, scrape the walls of the container and the blades to gather the pigments into the base of the container.
- Repeat step 5 twice to ensure that the pigment mixture is fully homogeneous.
- In the last stainless steel bowl, measure the caprylis oil and add the blended pigment mixture. Mix together, taking care to crush all clumps of powder with the mini spatula. The mixture must be smooth and homogeneous.
- Add the Olivem 1000 wax to the same bowl (containing the caprylis oil and pigments). Set this bowl on a double boiler and heat gently until it reaches 70–80°C, stirring regularly.
- Add the glycerin/gums mixture to the aqueous phase. Mix well until a gel forms.
- When the aqueous and oil phases are between 70 and 80°C and homogeneous, add the oil phase to the aqueous phase. Remove from heat and mix gently with the mini-mixer (with the frothing attachment/small wheel) for several minutes, until the mixture is smooth.
- Continue to mix, frequently scraping the walls of the bowl, until the mixture has thickened and slightly cooled.
- When the temperature of the cream is below 45°C, add the 10 drops of lactic acid, the vitamin E, the essential oil (if using) and the willow bark extract. Mix well.
- Weigh the rest of the cooling phase ingredients (50°C demineralized water, Geogard Ultra, and potassium sorbate) in a ramekin. Mix well to dissolve any granules.
- Pour the contents of this ramekin into the cream and mix well with the spatula for a few minutes.
- When the cream has cooled to about 30°C, pour it into a Ziploc-style bag. Remove the air from the bag and cut off a small corner (careful not to make it too large!).
- Fill the bottles and the dispensing tube. To do so, add a bit of cream at a time, then tap the bottom and the sides of the container on the palm of your hand to remove air bubbles. Repeat this process until the bottles are full (almost to the brim). Your homemade BB cream is now ready!
Use and conservation
Apply to dry skin on your face.
Made in optimal sanitary conditions, the product should keep for 3–6 months. Keep the second bottle in the refrigerator or give it to a friend!